Hatch and Portlight “Leak Stop Kits”
Year after year I get the same question….
“My hatch is fine, it just drips occasionally. I don’t want to go to the trouble of sending it in for a complete service. What other options do I have?”
You asked, and we listened…….
Select Plastics product development team proudly introduces “Lewmar Leak Stop Kits” .
We have put together the correct parts to eliminate water infiltration through handles and friction caps for Lewmar Hatches and Portlights manufactured since the 1980’s. These kits have the handle seals, friction seals and lubricant you need to stop those annoying drips. All materials are the same “marine” quality we use in the rebuilding process at the factory.
see the kits at http://www.hatchmasters.com/index.php?cPath=220&osCsid=7a329c8a85ceebacb9a10fa088da7a78
You may ask: What size kit do I need? NO PROBLEM…. If you are not sure send us a picture of your hatch and we will link you to the correct part.
These kits were introduced this year at the Newport and Annapolis boat shows to rave reviews. They are flying off the shelves. Don’t miss out, get a few sets for your spares / offshore kit now!
Select Plastics is making boating safer one hatch at a time.
Re-introducing the Lewmar Superhatch hinge repair kit.
This kit will eliminate the old style Superhatch from falling and whacking your hand.
Kit contains new followers, snubbers, hinge pins and washers.
Plenty in stock. We made a boatload. Call for more information or see the shop section of the web site for info on price and how to purchase.
You asked and we listened. The Select Plastics Product development team strikes again.
This is the solution you Catalina, Ericson and Beneteau owners have been looking for.
Select Plastics LLC working with the industry leaders in plastic and rubber extrusion technology is pleased to announce the introduction of the “new and improved” Lewmar old standard fixed portlight seal.
The availability of these seals coupled with Select’s lens and manufacturing capabilities have given us the tools we need to re-build even the most damaged Lewmar old standard fixed port.
The process is easy. Remove your old crazed and leaking portlights and send the entire frame to Select Plastics. Select’s master craftsman will disassemble and clean your unit’s inside flange and lens sealing area. A new Lewmar approved marine grade acrylic lens and seal will be installed. The entire unit will be re-assembled, checked and shipped back to you.
It is advisable to clean or remove all silicon or bedding compound from all portlights sent in for repair. Select Plastics will add an additional charge to clean the sealing flange on your portlight.
This is not a typo… your unit repaired, sent back, as good as new. NO cutting your boat or making do with another manufacturer’s model that almost fits……
We have been working on this solution for over five years. This is what you have been asking for.
The product development team at Select Plastics has been listening.
Give Select Plastics a call at 203-866-3767 to discuss your unit.
That subject always cracks me up…
Listen guys, crazing in acrylic is caused by either thermal or mechanical stresses imparted during production, transport, manufacture or in use.
Acid rain,Ultra Violet degradation, Windex or the boat detailer’s magic deck cleaner (to name a few) accelerate the process.
Once somthing is crazed it is significantly weaker than the same part in factory OEM condition.
How do you stop it? Make sunbrella covers (not vinyl backed sunbrella!!). Use cleaners specifically designed for Acrylic.
How do you repair it? You don’t.
We have all seen the lotions and potions sold at boat shows to cure everything from warts to your crazed hatches. You still have the warts don’t you?
You can follow the Mil.spec procedures from the USAF/USN and sand the lens until you are below the crazed line, sand again in successive grits and buff with 4 or 5 different compounds until clear again. Remember annealing? Yea…. you need to get the mechanical and thermal stress you just put in with the sanding and polishing out! Well at 170 degrees F for 12 hours (1/2 inch acrylic) and cool down at the same rate, oh and now you’ve found the seal puddled in the bottom of your wife’s oven and the parakeet is dead from the MMA vapor being outgassed during the process. New seal, new oven, new wife?
By the time you have compleated this repair you could have purchased two hatches, thrown one overboard and had the most expensive yard in the States instal the second with the gold plated rag-surcharge and be ahead of the game.
I repair thousands of hatches every year. I know replacing the lens is an option but repairing the crazing with potions or flames is not realistic.
Let me know if you want some pictures of really crazed hatches. I haveseen every make and model you could imagine.
I would like to help. But even the Hatchmaster cant make crazing dissapear. (yet)
I hear the question as to which sealant to use when bonding Acrylic, or Polycarbonate to aluminum, stainless or FRP over and over and over…..
Well here goes… The only three adhesives I would consider using are Sika Flex 295 UV with the primer, GE SG-4000, and Dow 795. Using the correct adhesive is only 1/2 the battle. Do not apply the sealants below 50 degrees F. The temperature must maintain at least 50F during the entire 21 day cure cycle. Cut this corner and your finished before you start. Preparation of the bond area is also very/ very important. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOND AREA WITH YOUR BARE HANDS! Contamination from the dirt and skin oils will make a solid cure impossible. You may clean the FRP and metal with acetone to prep the area but if you touch the Lexan or Plexi with harsh solvents you will ruin the portlight. A 50/50 mix of isopropal alcohol and distilled water will work well to clean the plastic if needed. Remember that clean enough is not clean enough.